Introduction

When an independent watchmaker debuts a new collection, the horological world buzzes with excitement, especially when it's a brand that's been on your radar for years. Zeitwinkel is one such name, known for its sleek modern designs and beautifully crafted German Silver movements. Recently, I had the privilege of examining the prototype of their latest offering, the Zeitwinkel 240° NOIR, which has been in development for nearly 15 years. The watch made a significant impression, leaving me both surprised and intrigued.

A New Contender Emerges

I had previously declared the Zeitwinkel 273° Sapphir Fumé my favorite piece from the brand, but the 240° NOIR is making a case for itself with its stealthy allure and impeccable attention to detail—despite offering less visibility into its mechanical workings. This timepiece is distinctively Zeitwinkel yet also brings a fresh perspective that initially puzzled me.

The Brain Behind the Watch

The creation of the 240° NOIR is the brainchild of Ivica ‘Maks’ Maksimovic, one of the founding trio behind Zeitwinkel. The team took 14 years to conceptualize this sports watch, which is available in five variations. While four feature a dark grey PVD coating, the standout model is the all-black 240° NOIR. With a case width of 40.5mm, the newly introduced size is finished with a black DLC coating that provides a contemporary edge, combined with familiar design elements like recessed case sections, a ergonomically designed crown, and sapphire crystals on both sides.

Distinctive Bezel Design

One of the key highlights of the 240° NOIR is its unique bezel. Unlike traditional brushed or polished finishes, this bezel is coated in black and features an engraved scale from zero to 60 filled with white Super-LumiNova, effortlessly linking the exterior aesthetic with the dial.

Legibility and Design of the Dial

When it comes to the dial, the 240° NOIR excels in legibility—a crucial attribute for sports watches. The contrasting hands stand out brilliantly against the black background due to generous Super-LumiNova application. Its numerals, in a unique Zeitwinkel font, are large and equally luminous. Adding sophistication are the various textures on the dial; the outer section boasts a coarse finish for the applied numerals, supported by a raised black track with a white scale for the central seconds hand. Inside, a radiant grooved pattern reminiscent of traditional Chinese parasols surprises the viewer, creating captivating contrasts between black and white.

Movement and Performance

Diverging from the brand's usual light-toned movements, the 240° NOIR showcases a dark-tinted “Black Or” finish on its movement plates and bridges, which maintains intricate detail while harmonizing with the watch’s stealthy aesthetic. The gold accents, including the wheels and rotor engravings, pop against this dark backdrop.

The automatic movement operates at 28,800 vph and features a partially openworked rotor. It is equipped with a Glucydur Straumann hairspring and boasts an impressive 72-hour power reserve—perfect for an adventurous, robust timepiece. Its finishing showcases the brand's commitment to quality, with polished edges, perlage, and Côtes de Genève displays.

Strap and Closure Design

The watch is attached to a flexible yet durable black rubber strap, secured with a black-coated butterfly clasp that combines comfort with functionality. The strap is embossed with the brand's logo and name, asserting its identity in style.

Pricing and Availability

The Zeitwinkel 240° NOIR represents the pinnacle of the collection, retailing for CHF 17,200, while the other variants are priced at CHF 15,900 (excluding VAT). You can purchase them directly through Zeitwinkel or their authorized retailers.

Conclusion

In conclusion, the Zeitwinkel 240° NOIR is an exceptional addition to the brand's lineup, marrying sleek, stealthy aesthetics with meticulous craftsmanship. The fit and finish, even in this prototype phase, promise a refined final product that reveals surprises upon closer examination. Its unique black coating and varied textures do not detract from Zeitwinkel's contemporary style; instead, they enhance it, showcasing the brand’s dedication to innovation in watchmaking. This watch is undoubtedly a conversation starter, inviting not just admiration for its appearance but also an appreciation for its technical excellence. Don't miss the chance to discover this modern classic!